Sunday, December 6, 2009
The Gulf Coast
We saw our first dolphins of the winter last Saturday (Nov 28) about an hour after we left Mobile Bay astern and entered into the Gulf Intercoastal Waterway (ICW). Actually it was a couple of hours because we stopped for lunch at Lulu's and we didn't see the dolphins until after lunch. Lulu's is kind of a tourist trap, largely due to the celebrity connection, but we like the shrimp and oyster Po' Boys, yum. Regarding the celebrity connection - Lulu's is owned by Lucy Buffett, Jimmy's sister. And yes they do serve a great cheeseburger, and while it might not be paradise it is mighty nice to sit and look out over the ICW while enjoying that burger with a "big kosher pickle and a cold draft beer". After such a feast for lunch we motored on over to a favorite anchorage and spent a chilly night on the hook. Sunday morning was warm and beautiful but the weather forecast was stinky and so we headed a few miles into Florida and checked in at Holiday Harbor Marina where Lauren Grace will reside while we celebrate Christmas in Boise.
That was Sunday, by Monday it was raining and windy, Tuesday was worse and a heck of a storm was moving ashore. Even in the marina we were getting waves, especially after the wind shifted to the Northwest. By Wednesday the winds were 40 mph and the waves were creating all kinds of whitecaps even on the ICW. Before leaving the boat to visit with friends ashore we put a couple of extra lines from the windward side to pilings a couple of piers over. Wednesday night we gathered, along with the occupants of several other boats, at the Innerarity Island home of our friends Tom & Patsy to commiserate about the horrible conditions and swap stories about the restless night we had all had. Turns out that our friends got the worst of the storm, about a half an hour before he was scheduled to collect all the boaters with no cars Tom noticed that something appeared "funny" down at his dock and when he went to investigate he discovered a broken piling and a section of dock missing. Luckily it was daylight and he noticed it before his boat had the opportunity to bounce down on a wave and hit the broken piling. He and Larry are planning to spend tomorrow doing dock repairs while Patsy and I go to Fairhope to do a little shopping ('tis the season) and collect our truck which is sitting at the Fairhope Yacht Club.
This week will be spent getting ready to leave the boat and head to see our girls. We are flying out of New Orleans on Friday and I can't wait! In the meantime there is the refrigerator to defrost, packing to attend to, and a little last minute cleaning to finish. Hopefully by the time we return next year the weather will have settled down and we will be able to have smooth sailing as we explore the Gulf Coast.
Tuesday, November 10, 2009
Surviving our first hurricane
Knowing this we planned to arrive in Mobile in November, but this year Mother Nature decided to mess with us and so we found ourselves waiting for Hurricane Ida. We were both a little uneasy, well, make that downright edgy. As you know Miss Lauren Grace was sitting on the hard, insurance companies like this because in their experience boats ashore do not sustain as much damage as boats in the water. We didn't like the way it felt as the boat was buffeted by the wind. Generally when a boat is in the water she is better supported and does not shudder as much, also when a boat is anchored (as in a thunderstorm) she lies with her bow to the wind and presents less resistance; throughout this storm the wind was on our stern.
About noon on Monday the storm was downgraded from a hurricane to a tropical storm that was also when the rain started. We worked until nearly dark finishing our preparations (detailed here Monday evening) and then all we could do was wait. Sometime mid-afternoon they were predicting landfall around 2:00 a.m., at some point they moved that up to midnight which was fine with us as we were ready to get it over with. Even though we were very tired from a long day of hard work we were too edgy for sleep so we spent the evening watching the storm on the local weather and on the computer (do we know how to have fun or what!). As we watched the storm was slowing down and landfall was being pushed back; finally about 2:00 a.m. I was unable to keep my eyes open any more and fell asleep from sheer exhaustion. At some point Larry must have crashed as well because when I awoke around 4:45 am he was sleeping. The wind was from the North and our stern was facing North, our stateroom (a fancy word for bedroom) is in the stern and I think that there was a change in the sound of the wind but whatever it was I couldn't go back to sleep so I got up and checked the computer only to find that Ida had slowed down and was taking her sweet time. That was probably good news because the longer she spent over the cool water of the Northern Gulf the less punch she would pack when she did come ashore. The bad news was we were still waiting. Larry got up and checked outside where it was still raining hard then he went back to bed.
The record shows that Ida first came ashore on Dauphin Island at 5:40 am on November 10, 2009. For those not familiar with Alabama geography Dauphin Island is about 20 miles or so South of Mobile , it is a barrier island on the Western mouth of Mobile Bay. After Dauphin she crossed the bay and came ashore again near Bon Secour which is on the Southeastern tip of the bay. then she churned North up the bay. Because the eye wall had fallen apart we did not get the wind shift that generally accompanies a hurricane and the winds continued strong and gusty from the North/Northeast.
We had been expecting a storm surge and an extremely high tide, the arrival of the storm coincided with high tide and by 5:30 there was about 2' of water in the lot at Dog River Marina. This photo was taken about 6:30 am because I forgot all about getting the camera earlier.
In the photo above where you see the posts there is a dock behind those boats that is underwater, the long silver things you see are sailboat masts that were on blocks beside the dock, as you can see they are awash.
By the time I remembered to start taking pictures the tide was already going out and by 7:30 the dock was awash as you can see
And by 8:30 the flotsam had been stranded on the lot and things were mostly dry.
Here is Miss Lauren Grace with here pretty new bottom paint, the big timber you see floated under us on the tide, amazing that it could come in between the blocks that are supporting the keep and come to rest against the forward block. The final photo of the flags was taken about noon and you can see that the wind was still quite strong.
The day continued raw, windy and rainy but this morning (Wednesday) dawned bright and sunny, although still quite windy. So today we spent the entire day drying out the lockers on the flybridge (and all the contents) and then returning the "stuff" to the locker. We took the opportunity to re-arrange things a bit as well as divest ourselves of some stuff that we decided we don't need to haul around anymore. There was even water inside the table on our sundeck that my brother-in-law Hank made for us to keep our spare props in! We had stuff (ropes, bag chairs, swim flippers, fishing tackle) spread out all over the foredeck to dry in the sun.
To summarize we have spent a day preparing, a day drying out and putting things back together (and we still aren't finished), and some tense hours just waiting. What did we learn from Ida? Perhaps just that we can.
Monday, November 9, 2009
"On the hard" and waiting for Ida.
The blue contraption that you see in the photo is called a travel lift, you can see way better photos if you click on the link. Simply put it has two big slings that are suspended between the two sides. The lift is driven by the operator out onto two concrete piers that have conveniently been placed at exactly the same distance apart as the legs of the lift. The slings are lowered deep into the water and the boat is driven in between the concrete piers. The operator slowly tightens the slings and lifts the boat out of the water, then he drives the lift (with the boat resting in the slings) over the ground to a parking spot where the boat is slowly lowered and supported by blocks placed under her keel. At that point the lift is driven away from the boat and stands are placed to help support the hull while she is on land, aka "the hard".
We have spent most of today getting ready for Hurricane Ida. Actually she was downgraded to a Tropical Storm about noon but precaution was still the order of the day and so we moved everything that could blow loose or blow off out of harm's way. You don't realize just how much "stuff" this is until you have to put it somewhere; I mean if we had somewhere else to put it it wouldn't have been there to begin with. For example the seat cushions on the flybridge live on the flybridge, there is no room for them elsewhere; likewise the cushions for the chairs on the sundeck. Ditto for the long handled brushes, the boat fenders, flags and coolers. We put the window coverings, the fenders, the buckets and the cushions in the back of the truck; which, conveniently, we had moved down here from Northern Alabama this weekend while Ida was busy blowing up into a Category 2 storm.
The biggest job was taking down all of that new canvas enclosure we had installed last summer and carefully rolling it in sheets so as not to scratch it. This process involves at least 15 zippers and more snaps than we can count. Of course by this time it was raining and so we had to carefully dry the Strataglas before we covered and rolled it.
Finally we moved the truck a few miles up the road to a parking lot at the grocery store to protect it from the possible storm surge. So now we are sitting inside waiting for Ida to arrive, with "stuff" stacked on every available surface. We have a path to walk through and a seat for each of us down in the cabin. Perhaps the best description would be "organized chaos", with emphasis on chaos. It feels like we are camping out in our own living room.
Stay tuned and we will fill you in once the storm passes.
Friday, November 6, 2009
Hello from Mobile, Alabama
We arrived in Mobile last Friday and the wind was blowing from the SE, this meant that the weather was warm and humid and the waves on Mobile Bay would be up, and on our bow. Really we started picking up waves for the last 10-15 miles down the river. The worst part of the trip was on the river due to all of the floating debris (in the form of large logs) which was difficult to see because of the waves. Yes we could have waited a day, but a cold front was forecast to come through overnight and we reasoned that the next day would be just as windy from a different direction (N/NW) and with the wind on our stern we would wallow down the bay in the cold. We opted to travel while it was sunny, dry and warm.
Miss Lauren Grace has been hauled out to have her bottom painted and some new zincs installed, a minor transmission repair and new cutlass bearings will complete her "well baby" check-up.
Tuesday, October 27, 2009
It's so Cliche, BUT...
In this small world is the small town of Demopolis Alabama on the Tenn Tom Waterway. We don’t particularly care for it here and had not intended to be here longer than a fuel stop and overnight dockage but the weather (don’t worry I’m not going to wine about that again) caused us to remain a day longer than we anticipated. More for entertainment than any real need we borrowed the courtesy car for a run to the grocery store which is on the northern edge of town. Since the marina is on the southern edge of town we had to travel through the “downtown” area and that is when I noticed, in the window of a cute little shop, some Christmas ornaments. Of course we had to stop.
As we entered the store a clerk asked if she could help us and I replied that we just wanted to check out the ornaments. She then inquired where we were from, our accent (or lack of one) was probably her first clue, and then again it's likely she knows everyone in town. We never know how to answer that question because we are no longer from any particular place; however, recognizing that others want to know where visitors to their town hail from we often say St. Louis; which is what we said yesterday. The clerk smiled and said “I used to live in St. Louis, well St. Charles really”. Naturally I replied that I had grown up in St. Charles. The usual kind of conversation ensued.
Clerk: “Where did you go to school”?
Me: “I went to a small little country high school at Orchard Farm.”
Clerk: “I went to school there!”
This was just too surprising because I grew up in a rural area North of the town of St. Charles which was then a fairly small town itself. I think my graduating class (of about 40 or so) was the first class to spend all fours years at and graduate from O.F.H.S.. Prior to about 1962 high school students were bussed to the town of St. Charles because there were too few of them to warrant a high school (there were only 3 scattered elementary schools each with about 4 rooms). Talk about small! Then came the amazing part.
Suspecting that she was younger than I am I asked what year she graduated and we determined that she must have been a freshman back when I was a senior. As we were chatting about what a coincidence our meeting was the clerk said: “I was there when they did the play The Sound of Music”. “OMG, I was in that play, I was the crabby nun” and she replied, “I sang in the back-up chorus”.
As I said it was a small school and I grew up there and had no recognition at all of this person which surprised me a little. When we asked where she lived she said her parents lived in a trailer court; then we mostly knew that she lived right on highway 94 just outside of town. A little more conversation and we were able to determine which of the 2 trailer courts she had lived in (Princess Jodi, for those of you who remember). We tried to see if we had any mutual acquaintances but nothing clicked there. It might be important to note that at this point in the conversation none of us had introduced ourselves. Then she said, “people had unusual names up there” and I replied that there is a lot of German heritage so that might be why they sounded strange to her.
“Well”, she said, “I remember one name was Valentine”! Unbelievable! Larry said that his name was Valentine.
Clerk: “Where did you live?”
Larry: “You know that subdivision that was across the highway from the gas station and about a block down, I lived in the only two-story house in that subdivision”.
Clerk: “I’ve been to your house!”
Oh My God! She couldn’t remember why she was at his house, just that she had gone there with several other girls who lived in the trailer court; perhaps to visit some of his younger sisters/brothers.
The strangeness continues because we learned that Ann (by now we are on a first name basis) only lived there for two years before returning to Demopolis. And Larry’s family only lived there for two years before they returned to Texas. We aren’t sure if it was the same years but there was obviously some correlation in the time.
What are the odds that we would ever encounter this person? Even if we both stilled lived in the area I would think the chances would be slim and here we are many miles away.
So here’s to a really small world; and to Ann Jones, from Demopolis and Larry & Theresa Valentine also from Demopolis, at least for today.
Monday, October 26, 2009
No More Whining
Last time I posted I apparently got so caught up with whining about the weather that I forgot to tell you about the fun stuff that we saw (and some that we didn't see) in Florence, Alabama.
At the top of my "things to see" list was Ivy Green, the birthplace of Helen Keller who you might remember as the blind and deaf girl who learned to sign and speak and read Braille back in 1887. The original family home was built in 1820 by Helen's grandfather and was the home to which his son Captain Arthur Keller brought his wife Kate after their marriage. Most of the furniture and objects in the home are pieces which belonged to the Keller family when they lived in the home which survived the Civil War (or the War of Northern Aggression as it is know in Alabama). Today the home is beautifully maintained by the Helen Keller Foundation.
Those who remember the movie The Miracle Worker" will be glad to know that the original pump, scene of the dramatic moment when 7 year old Helen made the connection between the finger tapping out a code for the word "water" and the sensation of the water flowing over her hand, is still standing in the yard. She must have been incredibly intelligent to have managed to put it all together at such a tender age with the limited teaching methods available in 1887.
While at Ivy Green I picked up a "tourist book" listing 10 things to do in "The Shoals" (as the towns of Florence, Tuscumbia and Muscle Shoals are known). I noticed that Florence is home to a Frank Lloyd Wright house, I have always been intrigued by photos of Wright's designs but had never visited one, so we took advantage of finding ourselves practically next door to the only Frank Lloyd Wright designed house in Alabama. Let's just say that I was underwhelmed. The home was built in 1939 for the Rosenbaum family and they are the only family to occupy it. In 1999 with Mrs Rosenbaum in failing health and unable to fine a buyer the family sold the home to the City of Florence with the proviso that it would be restored. With the extensive & lengthy restoration completed the home is now open for tours and other public events.
This home was built in the Usonian-style (whatever that means because I did not research it). The exterior was striking but once inside the front door I was amazed at how dark the interior felt despite one entire side of the home having glass walls, well really individual framed glass doors that opened out. The walls were all wood and stained a medium to dark tone, about the color of dark teak wood, the ceiling was also wood in the same tone and the floors were stained concrete in a reddish-brown tone. The ceilings were only about 7' above the floor, all in all I had the feeling of being in a cave. The docent told us that when Wright was questioned about the low ceilings he replied that he "didn't know anyone tall enough to require a higher ceiling". The kitchen was amazing; it was about the size of a powder room in a home today! I am not exaggerating, it was about 8' x 8' with a U-shaped arrangement of counters/sink/stove/icebox (yes, I do mean icebox) along 3 walls, there was almost room in the center of the "U" for one person to turn around to tend to all 3 surfaces. The 4th wall had a narrow doorway opening directly out onto the hallway that connected the living areas of the home to the bed/bath area, across the hallway from the kitchen door was a "dining room" no larger than the dinette on our boat! Actually that kitchen doorway was quite wide (maybe 30"-36", max), at least compared to the bathroom and bedroom doors which were only 24' wide. Not all was negative though; the master bedroom was a suite, not terribly common in 1939 when the house was designed, and the plumbing fixtures were surprisingly modern.
Another item on the "top 10" list was the Coon Dog Cemetery. We passed on the opportunity to check out this "monument to the breed" (their words, not mine) but we talked to some boaters who did make the trip and they said the marker stones were phenomenal. Since 1937 there have been more than 185 certified coon dogs from all over the country buried at the Key Underwood Coon Dog Memorial Graveyard. I know you think I make this stuff up, but really it's true.
Saturday, October 17, 2009
Everybody talks about it...
As you might expect, given our lifestyle, the weather governs our day to day life in a fairly big way. For one thing we are outdoors quite a lot; I mean taking the trash out is not just a trip to the garage to drop the bag in the trash can it may mean a half-block walk, or at the extreme a half mile dinghy ride, to put the bag in a dumpster. It's no fun to schlep dirty cloths to the laundry room in the rain, and it is even worse to have it rain on nice freshly laundered sheets & towels.
Then there is the schedule. As you may have surmised we don't usually have a very rigid schedule but even our loose timing is affected by a month of rain, and it is not fun traveling in rain. Yes when we are operating the boat we are inside a covered enclosure but then there is the matter of transiting locks, at which time I have to leave that nice dry enclosure and go out into the rain and catch the bollard and tend the line. Generally on the river there is at least one lock each day and sometimes as many as 4 or five. There is also the matter of docking or anchoring, the big difference between the two is whether it's Larry or I who gets wet; if we are docking I am out handling the lines, if we are anchoring he is out setting the hook or raising it. Not only are thunderstorms no fun they are also potentially dangerous so we do our best to avoid them.
Our plan, such as it was, anticipated the customary nice warm mid-South September with generally clear dry days and cool evenings (good sleeping weather). It was our intent to use this lovely month to sample the beautiful anchorages On Watt's Bar and Guntersville Lake, if you have been checking in you already know how the September plan failed. We had also decided that if the hurricane situation allowed we would plan to arrive in Mobile on Halloween, thus avoiding the potential for frosty weather that can occur by mid-November in lower Mississippi & Alabama. This schedule would allow us time to spend a week in early October anchoring on Bay Springs Lake with a stop to check out the "waterfall anchorage" on Pickwick Lake as we went by.
We have wanted to try this anchorage for a couple of years and every time we go past there has been a reason that we can't/don't stop, this trip was no different. We had run in overcast weather through two locks that day and the forecast was for thunderstorms overnight, feeling that the waterfall anchorage would not afford adequate protection from the expected thunderstorms we found a different anchorage and hunkered down. It did indeed storm but we were protected on three sides by rock cliffs covered with trees so all we got was rain and a spectacular light show courtesy of Mother Nature.
The next day was bright and sunny as we left the Tennessee River astern and pointed our bow Southward on the Tenn-Tom Waterway to Bay Springs Lake. The forecast was for rain the following day and then a glorious stretch of fall weather. That forecast lasted for about a day. The rain arrived, on schedule, the day after we did it just never left. We stayed at Bay Springs 5 days and it rained 4 of them. We finally left and went to a marina near Fulton to visit friends who have bought a home there. We were lucky to make it through all 3 locks and get docked before the skies opened up and it poured rain for 12 hours.
As you might expect given the amount of rain the region has experienced in the past six weeks the ground is saturated so now the Tombigbee part of the Tenn-Tom is flooding (which you expect in the Spring but not in the fall). After 3 days in Fulton we made our way as far as Columbus where we will wait for the water to recede and the debris and trash to float on downstream and watch for a good opportunity to continue down to Mobile. We spent part of last winter here and coming back reminded us how much we missed the people here, the marina manager & staff just can't do enough for you.
Today the sun finally came out, first time we have seen it in over a week. The downside to that is that the strong and windy cold front which pushed out the rain also brought a chance of frost here tomorrow - so much for avoiding frosty weather!
Saturday, October 3, 2009
We meet the nicest strangers, mostly
The other day as Larry was walking up to dispose of our trash some guys sitting out on a balcony called to him and he waved in response. One of the fellows called to him and asked if he was on "one of them boats out there", of course that led to a conversation. The guy said he had heard that people could "take them boats from here all the way to up to Canada and then come back here from up in Lake Michigan, is that true". Upon being assured that indeed it was not only true but that Larry had done just that he responded with, .."well I still don't believe it".
So as I said at the outset we meet the nicest strangers, I mean have you ever had that kind of conversation in a hotel lobby?
Saturday, September 26, 2009
All in all I'd rather have fog...
As unbelievable as it sounds in the 3+ years we have been aboard we had not, until yesterday, experienced traveling in a thunderstorm; while at anchor yes but not while running. I would like to say that it has been good planning on our part but rather I think that we have enjoyed some fine luck and yesterday it ran out!
Unless you have been living in a cave you have probably heard on the media about the rains in the Southeast. It has been raining for 2 weeks now across Alabama, Tennessee, Georgia and North Carolina. Aside from spoiling our plans to spend some nice September days hanging out in beautiful anchorages as we slowly made our way downriver we have experienced no real harm from the rain but it sure has been unpleasant. Mostly we have made our way from marina to marina (thankfully most of them had covered slips) on the good days (meaning it was only rain showers), and spent the worst days (monsoon type downpours & thunderstorms) sitting in those marinas listening to and watching the rain. Then we got in a hurry. Our budget had taken a bit of a hit from the unanticipated days in marinas and we knew we had some time at the marina at Joe Wheeler Park already paid for and waiting for us so we hurried along in spite of the forecast.
I mean it was only a 50% chance on Friday, not like 70% or anything! On top of that we set a very ambitious schedule of 100 miles and a lock for the day, meaning that we would not be off of the water early. We could have chosen a shorter travel day but we would have had to anchor overnight and the forecast for Saturday was for 90% chance so you can see our compulsion to move along. To compound things we got a bit of a late start because we had to wait for morning fog to burn off.
The day was going great; we got through the lock and were within 28 miles of our destination when things got ugly. As we were approaching Decatur, AL the sky took on a “rainy” sort of look but checking the radar we couldn’t see it, yet. We waited about 10 minutes for the railroad bridge to open and while waiting the sky began to look ominous, we listened to the NOAA forecast on the weather radio. Still they weren’t calling it. We cleared the bridge at 3:55 and continued on our way. At 4:00 NOAA sites a thunderstorm right where we were and issued a warning, a lot of good that did we could see the storm by that time. We were in a narrow channel and there was nothing to do but continue on, slowly. By 4:05 it was raining HARD and very windy; we couldn’t see a thing, just like when you are driving in a heavy rain – and then a big semi passes you. The waves popped right up to 1 ½ - 2 feet – on the river. Rain blew in through every little crack and I spent my time trying to stuff towels so that they would slow the water down and also wiping up to protect the electronics.
Thank goodness for radar and our navigation software that interfaces with our GPS to give us a picture and puts our little boat right on the chart. With these tools we can see the buoys and the other boats if there are any which, gratefully, there were not.
By 4:27 it was mostly over, the sky was lightening up ahead of us and the rain had slowed to a sprinkle and by 4:42 the sun was out again; nature’s fury was spent. Other than not being in such an all fired hurry and just spending a couple o’ more days at Goose Pond where we were quite comfortable there is not much we could have done to avoid this experience.
A couple of years ago we got caught in some sea fog out on the Georgia coast, I think I wrote about it in a travel update. After the storm yesterday I was thinking that the thunderstorm was much like the fog in that you can’t see anything which can be disorienting. But, in the fog you can hear because it is very still, whereas in a storm everything is making noise, the rain pounds, the waves pound or slosh, the thunder bumps and the boat. So all in all I think I prefer fog – today at least.
Sunday, September 20, 2009
The Scopes Monkey Trial
Apparently in the early 20th century Dayton was a big mining center and as such became a large and thriving commercial area that provided for the needs of the miners and their families. Due to a series of explosions the mine was shut down and the town was languishing, businesses were closing, hotels were shuttered, things were grim.
Around this time schools around the country had begun teaching evolution. In January of 1925 a Tennessee state legislator, worried that his children would be corrupted by such teaching, introduced a bill to prohibit the teaching of evolution in the schools of the state and it becomes law.
In May of 1925 the ACLU placed an announcement in the Chattanooga Times
In which they offered to pay the expenses of a teacher willing to make a test case of the new law. A civic leader and promoter from Dayton saw the announcement and was quick to sense an opportunity to remedy the limping economy of the town. He hurried to discuss the matter with the owner of the local drugstore, the judge and the superintendent of schools. A young math teacher, John Scopes, was recruited and agreed to participate. How, you may ask, can a math teacher teach evolution? Well it seems that Mr. Scopes had, on a few occasions, substituted for the biology teacher; and besides they were mainly looking for any teacher willing to agree to participate in making a test case. Thus the “trial of the century” began as something of a publicity stunt to revive the fortunes of the town of Dayton.
Ultimately some of the best legal minds in the country participated in the spectacle. Famed orator and three time presidential candidate Williams Jennings Bryan served as the chief prosecutor and Clarence Darrow as the lead defense counsel.
Sensing that Dayton was going to get a lot of publicity Chattanooga tried, in vain, to have the trial moved to the city but Dayton outfoxed them and the trial was held in Dayton. It was the first national broadcast of an American trial with radio station WGN. Over 200 reporters thronged the press box, and 65 telegraph operators moved in and began sending more words to Europe and Australia than had ever before been cabled about any other American happening.
Read more accounts of the Scopes Monkey Trial at these links. Rhea County Courthouse was the site of the trial and today there is quite a little museum in the courthouse basement, the docent there was eager to share this bit of Dayton’s history. The most ironic thing is that both the prosecution and the defense wanted Scopes found guilty. The reason for this was that the ACLU (remember their announcement is what started this ball rolling) wanted a test case to take to a higher Court. In fact the Tennessee Supreme court did uphold the constitutionality of the law but reversed Scopes’ conviction on a technicality. The original plan to revive Dayton was certainly successful as the newsmen flocked to Dayton, they filled the empty hotels and many stayed with local residents who proved room and board.
In the aftermath of the trial John Scopes who had become the “forgotten man” in the entire production left Dayton, studied geology at the University of Chicago and worked for an oil company in South America before moving to Louisiana where he died in 1970. Bryan died five days after the verdict while he was still in Dayton. The citizens of Dayton initiated a memorial university to honor Bryan’s life and in an ironic twist the doors of “Williams Jennings Bryan University” (now Bryan College) were opened in 1930 in the old high school building where John Scopes had supposedly taught evolution.
Sequoyah and the Cherokee Language
By the 1820’s the Cherokee had created a form of government that sounds eerily familiar. They elected a principal chief as well as a deputy chief and established a two house legislature as well as judicial districts; each district had a judge and a sheriff. They also had established a supreme court, and a constitutional government.
You may recall that in 1838 the Cherokee Nation was removed from their homeland in Tennessee and resettled in Oklahoma with the forced march now know as the “Trail of Tears”. Not knowing much about this resettlement we were interested when we found out that the Sequoyah Birthplace Museum was right across the Little Tennessee River from our marina near Vonore, TN. Our visit there provided a fascinating look at Cherokee culture, language development, and some information on the resettlement.
Around 1776 an Indian woman named Wurteh, of a family that was of high rank in the Nation, gave birth to a son whose father was a white trader named Nathanial Gist. In the Cherokee tradition the lineage passes through the Mother’s clan however the boy was given the name of George Gist. It was not uncommon for Cherokee men of that era to be given a white name and an Indian name; this baby was also called Sequoyah. Abandoned by his father shortly after birth he was raised by his prosperous Mother and developed skills in managing her dairy and horse herds. As a young man he fought for the United States in the War of 1812. During his adult life he often made a living as a silversmith.
Sequoyah was intrigued by the “talking leaves” of the whites and thought that there were advantages in being able to retain thoughts on paper. Shortly after the end of the War of 1812 he was married and around this time he set about creating a writing system for the Cherokee language. Not being a learned man he was overwhelmed and frustrated with the complexity of the work. At some point his wife and neighbors (apparently feeling that his efforts may make them look foolish) destroyed his books and papers representing several years work. Sequoyah persevered and in 1821 he completed the Cherokee syllabary; within a year thousands of Cherokees became literate. In 1827 the tribe purchased a printing press and in February of 1828 the first Cherokee language newspaper, the Cherokee Phoenix, was printed. This newspaper was printed weekly until the press was confiscated by the State of Georgia in 1834 because of anti-removal editorials.
In 1847, three years after Sequoyah’s death, the Austrian Stephen Endlich conferred the name Sequoyah on the majestic California redwoods. In an ironic touch the State of Georgia erected a memorial to him in 1927 it is located in Calhoun, not far from the print shop that produced tens of thousand of pages of literature in Cherokee before Georgia confiscated the press. In 1917 the State of Oklahoma placed a statue of Sequoyah in Statuary Hall in the U.S. Capitol. Quite a memorial to a man who believed in the power of the written word!
More Pictures of Lauren & Anna
In my defense I am also a bit slow because we had company aboard a few days after we arrived home and then I have had very slow connections via our air card. It takes a fairly quick connection to post photos and so I had a good excuse for procrastinating.
The past week has been rainy and we have mostly hunkered down, first in anchorages and then in a marina with no wi-fi and now, finally, in a marina just above Chattanooga where I have the double benefit of the air card being fast and a fast wi-fi connection. As we hope to leave here tomorrow I am taking advantage of this windfall of fast connections to send a few more pictures of Lauren and Anna that we took on our recent trip.
Magnificent Cathedrals
No trip to Washington would be complete without a stop at the National Cathedral which many of us have seen on television. Built in the Gothic style it is dark and awe inspiring. It is a much newer structure than the Basilica; one of the stained glass windows even has a rock from the moon embedded.
Both are architecturally significant, both are beautiful, no doubt about it they are two spectacular houses of worship. I am not a particularly well-traveled person, and I have never seen many of the beautiful churches that are built around the world. In spite of the foregoing disclaimer I hereby submit my nomination for the most magnificent cathedral of them all -
Saturday, September 19, 2009
From the Mountains.....
We left the Interstate again just West of Rock Springs, WY and took scenic Highways 189 & 191 North to Jackson, sometimes erroneously referred to as “Jackson Hole”. Along the way we saw beautiful scenery and also this great spot along a little stream where Jim Bridger carved his name (or had it carved) back in 1844 when he was just a plain old trapper & guide and not the now famous Jim Bridger of Western lore. Since the days of the fur trappers the region has been known as a “hole” because topographically it is a hole or a valley that is surrounded by mountains. The hole afforded the best weather available to the trappers during the winter (given the limited options offered by the region and the fact that they were traveling on foot or at best on horseback) and so they wintered there and often held rendezvous in the region.
In the town of Jackson we stopped to buy sandwiches & then went north a few more miles into Grand Teton National Park because it is simply spectacular and I never tire of looking at the scenery there, but also to purchase our Ten Dollar “Senior Pass” good at all National Parks and sites that charge admission. I guess that means we are officially old farts! Mission accomplished we went a few miles to a pull off area and ate our sandwiches while we sat on the tailgate of the truck in the shadow of Grand Teton mountain.
Of course we did time this visit so that we could celebrate Dennis’ birthday with him.
Friday, August 7, 2009
The Tale of the Snail Darter
Don’t think that all this beauty has caused me to abandon the pursuit of a history lesson, for the valley of the Little Tennessee is rich in history and I’m going to share some of its most recent story. The story of the construction of Tellico Lake covers a period of nearly 40 years, from before World War II until 1980.
Back in the late 1930’s the TVA built Fort Loudon Dam about 50 miles below Knoxville for the purposes of flood control and hydro-electric generation. Today we take electricity for granted and it is easy to forget how important the power generation was back then but remember that there were many rural areas that still did not have electricity on the eve of WWII. For balance it is also good to keep in mind that the TVA was, and still is a governmental type bureaucracy and was eager to build themselves an empire. Anyway shortly after Ft. Loudon Dam was completed the TVA proposed to create more storage space for flood control while at the same time providing more water for electric power generation. They could do this by constructing a dam on the Little Tennessee just above its mouth (which was about a mile below the Ft. Loudon Dam) and cutting a canal to connect the reservoir formed by that dam with the reservoir above the Ft. Loudon Dam. This project was referred to as the Ft. Loudon Extension and in 1942 was projected to cost $10.7 million. Funds were appropriated in June of 1942 but within a few months the TVA was told that the project must be postponed because of WWII.
It was 1963 before a new and improved (read “larger”) version of the project was revived, this time with a new name; the Tellico Project. The world was quite different in 1963 than it had been in the 40’s and as you might expect there was a great deal of controversy surrounding the Tellico Project. Proponents focused on the economic benefits, jobs, and growth potential. Opponents sited the loss of a free flowing river, loss of agricultural lands and the historic value of the land to the Cherokee Indian Culture (even though the Cherokee had been forced from this land in the 1800’s and relocated to Oklahoma). Congress ultimately appropriated $41 million dollars and construction on the project began in 1967.
In 1969 Congress enacted the National Environmental Policy Act. In 1971 the TVA was ordered to stop work on the project because the environmental impact studies required by the 1969 legislation were apparently more rigorous than those that had been completed when the project was approved and they were accused of proceeding with inadequate studies. It was 1973 before the courts ruled that the statements on file were acceptable and the project could continue.
OK friends it is time to get those neurons firing; check those cranial files for the term “snail darter”. Does it sort of ring a bell, but you just can’t place it? Yeah me too, but now I have the scoop. Sometime in 1971 or 72 a tiny little fish called a snail darter was found in an area of the Little Tennessee River that would be impounded by the Tellico Project. In 1973 environmentalists opposed to the project petitioned the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service to list the snail darter as endangered under the Endangered Species Act. In 1975 when the Tellico Project was nearly 75% completed the snail darter was listed as endangered. Construction continued while the matter was argued in the courts, but in 1977 when the project (now $136.9 million) was 90 percent completed the TVA was prohibited from any further construction that might destroy or modify the snail darter’s habitat. A 1978 Supreme Court ruling upheld the endangered status for the fish but Congress passed an exemption to the Endangered Species Act in order to allow construction to proceed.
The dam was closed on November 29, 1979. Meanwhile small populations of the controversial snail darter were found throughout the U.S. and in four widely scattered areas of East Tennessee besides the valley of the Little Tennessee. Today the snail darter in no longer on the endangered species list.
Was the battle to build the dam and construct Tellico Lake worth it? We have been told that most locals today admit that they are better off economically, however some still resent being essentially forced from their land, sometimes land homesteaded by their grandparents and great grandparents. I can attest that the scenery and the water are some of the prettiest of anyplace we have traveled to, the water is clear and deep so it attracts boaters who freely spend money. Of course it would still be pretty in the natural state, that is as a shallow and rocky river, but the economic benefits may not be the same. The economy appears to be thriving as we still are seeing new residential construction in the developments that line one side of the first 20 miles of so of the lake. Today the area attracts retirees who come for the mild climate and the beautiful water. A lot of land is still open for public use such as camping and boat launching and other day use, this land is supposed to remain available for public use. There is almost no industry on this lake, the town of Vonore has built an industrial park but thus far they have found it difficult to entice sustainable industry to their community. The future of industry appears to be more uncertain than the future of residential use and in a way I'm not sorry about this because the impact of industry on the beauty and the water quality is not usually a good thing.
The spectacular scenery with the Blue Ridge Mountains in the background, much as it must have always looked.
The photo below shows the impact of the residential development that brings economic benefits to the region.
Tuesday, August 4, 2009
A New Product Review
Sunday, July 12, 2009
View From The Bridge of Miss Lauren Grace
This is Lookout Mountain, near Chattanooga.
There are neat rock formations like this "bridge" where the rock below has caved in, or has it broken out?!
And "interesting" things like bat caves. I just wonder who the fence is protecting, the boaters or the bats?
There are more signs than you might imagine. The one above is on I24 near Chattanooga we have driven past it so many times on trips to South Carolina & Florida; it was a kick to see it from the water!
This one below provides important information. This info is noted on our charts as well but the potential for harm is great so the in your face reminder is a good thing.
We see birds of all kinds but I gotta' tell you that it is tough to get good photos of birds with a point 'n shoot. I am usually moving and not close enough for my little 6x zoom to do the job.
We see all kinds of bridges, this railroad lift bridge is not exceptional but the scenery sure is spectacular.
In Chickamauga, Watts Bar, & Tellico Lakes (named for the dams which control the river and provide electricity) we saw silos in the water. They were not destroyed when the lakes were created. As you can see many of these lakes boast significant residential development.
Then there are the navigation aids which keep us in the channel and away from those silos! Here a string of red buoys and a day mark leads us around a turn in the river.
Here you see the Decatur, Alabama waterfront. It is a very industrial area with many grain mills.
There are industrial areas all along the river because of the opportunity for easy and inexpensive transportation. Here a barge is being filled at a big facility that seems to be in the middle of nowhere.
There are power plants all up and down most rivers. The TVA provided electric to much of this section of the country in the 1900's and so you will see hydro-electric plants, steam plants, and nuclear facilities. Along with the gorgeous scenery we see the stacks of the Kingston Steam Plant where the big fly ash spill occurred last winter. Some how the picture of the Kingston Plant didn't make it to the upload!
I am fascinated with the shape of the cooling towers at most of the nuclear facilities. These are at the huge Sequoyah Nuclear Power Plant.
Where they generate power they need a way to carry it to the users so we see high-tension power lines crossing the river. Some, but not all, actually have a tower in the water like you see below. The concrete pylons are there to prevent (we hope) the tower from being hit by boats or barges.
Of course we see BOATS! All kinds of boats. The beautiful stern wheeler the "Delta Queen" has just been permanently moored on the Chattanooga waterfront where she is slated to become a luxury hotel and restaurant. Chattanooga is a city that really makes the most of their riverfront.
This jon boat has a diver down in the water. We know this because of the red flag which has a white band running diagonally across it that is not visible in the photo.
This strange workboat on a powered barge is one of the more unusual vessels we have seen.
Always there are towboats and barges. Just this Spring Larry began keeping a list of the names of towboats we see, since April 20, 2009 he has recorded over 139 different towboats and many of them we have seen more than once.